I came home to Canada last month, but I still have a lot to write about my (almost) two years in Ireland. In this post, I wanted to share a little bit about visiting Kilkenny, Ireland. Kilkenny a small city about 125km southwest of Dublin. You could spend a couple of days in Kilkenny, but I decided to go down from Dublin on a day trip. Here is how to spend a day in Kilkenny.
Going To Kilkenny
You can rent a car and drive to Kilkenny, which would give you a bit more freedom on where to go. It would also allow you to see some nearby towns. There are bus services go to Kilkenny from Dublin and from other cities (like Cork and Waterford). I took the train from Dublin’s Heuston Station to Kilkenny. The journey is about 90-minutes one-way. The seats are comfortable, and there is free-wifi (and outlets at specific seats) on board. You can choose a random seat or reserve a seat. Irish Rail does this weird thing where you can reserve the seat under your name or your booking number. If suggest reserving your seat under your booking number. My train ticket to Kilkenny was about €22 return.
River Nore and Hurling
Kilkenny is a pretty small city (population about 26,000) making it a great place to walk around. I started out by walking from the train station and going across the River Nore. There’s a walking trail along the river (Canal Walk) that is quite beautiful.
At the start of the trail (from Canal Square) is a Hurling statue. Hurling (for the non-Irish) is a field sport (one of the fastest field sports in the world). Gaelic Athletics Associations (GAA) clubs are in cities and towns across Ireland. Most GAA clubs have a hurling team. Kilkenny’s hurling team has won the All Ireland Senior Hurling Championship the most out of every team in Ireland (36 times in total). It seems fitting there’s there is a statue to commemorate the sport of Hurling in Kilkenny.
Like many places in Ireland Kilkenny has a castle (Kilkenny Castle) and it’s one of the main attractions in Kilkenny. The grounds of the castle (a.k.a outside) is free, but if you want to go inside (and do a self-guided tour), it’ll cost €8. The castle was built in the 4th Earl of Pembroke (William Marshal). Building began in 1195 and finished in 1213, but the castle (like many in Ireland) has been added on to and renovated over the years. The tour is self guided, but you’ll get a pamphlet to read. Give yourself about an hour to go through Kilkenny Castle. Don’t forget to tour the grounds as well. Ireland knows how to do gardens.
Smithwick’s (pronounced as Smithick’s…don’t pronounce the W in Ireland) is a type of beer that originates from Kilkenny. It’s a pretty standard Irish beer (along with Guinness of course) to find outside of Ireland. In Kilkenny, they have the Smithwick’s Experience, which is where Smithwick’s was brewed (until brewing moved to Dublin). The Smithwick’s Experience is at the site of an old Franciscan Monastery. Here in the 13th Century monks first began brewing beer using the local water. John Smithwick and Richard Cole went into business together in 1710 and started Smithwick’s and Sons Brewing Company. The tour is about an hour and costs €15 or €13 if you book online in advance. Online tickets are good for up to 12 months.
After my liquid lunch at the Smithwick’s Experience, I decided to go for lunch at a pub called The Playwright. Most pubs in Ireland serve food (at least during the day) and also allows kids (again usually during the day). Pubs are a casual place to have a drink and grab a bite to eat a pretty affordable price (for sit down casual dining). My lunch came to about €13 and was pretty delicious. I got the lamb shank and a mineral (which you might know as pop/soda).
Churches, Cathedral, and Roundtowers
Ireland might have a lot of castles, but they also have lots of churches and cathedrals. I always find churches in Europe are full of a lot of history, impressive architecture and art. In Kilkenny, there is St. Canice’s Cathedral and Round Tower. You can pay €4.5 to go inside the church and €4 if you want to up the Round Tower (walking) for a view of Kilkenny. Unfortunately by the time I got over to St. Canice’s Cathedral they were closing up for the day.
While I wasn’t able to go inside St. Canice’s Cathedral I was able to head into The Black Abbey of Kilkenny. It was founded in 1225 by William Marshal the 1st Earl of Pembroke. It’s free to go inside (though donations are accepted). The stained glass windows were quite beautiful.
Is That All?
One thing I should point out is that my day trip to Kilkenny was on a Sunday. On Sundays, public transportation in Ireland starts a bit later. It also runs a little less frequently than other days. I didn’t get into Kilkenny until about 11am. On Sundays, a lot of attractions (museums, castles, churches, etc.) have limited hours. Most attractions close by about 5pm, if not earlier.
If I had more time in Kilkenny I would have done a couple of the attractions on the Medieval Mile. Kilkenny was actually the capital of Ireland for a time during Medieval times. Museums like The Medieval Mile Museum and Rothe House show this history. If I’m back in Kilkenny I’d want to check them out.
I really enjoyed my time in Kilkenny. It’s close enough to Dublin for a day trip, but I definitely think it would be worth spending more than a day here. The city is small and easily walkable, but there’s a lot to see and do here. If you’re in Ireland Kilkenny is definitely worth checking out.
Have you been to Kilkenny? What city in Ireland would you love to visit? Let me know in the comments.